United States Stove DR6 Owner's Manual download pdf (Page 8)



Many people may wish to convert an existing

replace to heater use. Usually, safe con-

nection of stovepipe to a masonry chimney

requires more effort than connection to a

prefabricated chimney. The replace must

be closed and sealed at the damper in the

ue. Good sealants are high temperature

caulking, ceramic wool, and furnace ce-

ment. Always remember to inspect the

masonry chimney and replace. If neces-

sary, clean the ue and smoke shelf before

beginning your installation. Install the heater

into the chimney so that the system can be

dismantled for cleaning and inspection.

Before deciding to convert your replace

or existing chimney, keep in mind that older

replaces and their chimneys are unsafe.

They must be structurally sound, and the

ue liner must be in good condition. Do

not use a chimney if it is unlined (should

have a tile clay liner to protect brickwork),

have it relined professionally. Clearances to

combustibles are explained in the previous

section on masonry chimneys. If you have

any questions regarding the condition of

the chimney, consult a qualied engineer,

competent mason, certied Chimney Sweep,

or knowledgeable inspector.

Many prefabricated replaces fall into the

“zero-clearance replace” category. This is

a factory metal replace with multi-layered

construction. It is designed to provide enough

insulation and/or air cooling so that the base,

back and sides can be safely placed in close

contact with combustible oors and walls.

Although many prefabricated replaces

have been tested by nationally recognized

organizations for use as replaces, they have

not been tested to accept heaters. In fact,

their use as such may void the manufacturer’s

warranty.

Steel-lined replaces, on the other hand,

can be used with heaters. These units use a

1/4-inch re box liner and an air chamber in

connection with 8 inches of masonry to meet

code. They contain all the essential parts of

a replace, rebox, damper, throat, smoke

shelf, and smoke chamber. Many of them

look exactly like a masonry replace and must

be checked closely for above requirements

before installing a coal heater into them.

Another method frequently used by some

people is to vent the heater directly into the

replace. This does not meet code since the

heater is being vented into another appli-

ance - the replace. This method should not

be attempted because combustion products

will deposit and build up in the rebox or

replace. Be certain not to install a hazard in

you house. You will void your warranty with

this installation.

Connection of the stovepipe directly into the

existing masonry chimney over the replace

opening is the only approved method. This

installation performs better, yielding easy to

clean and inspect for creosote. Before begin-

ning this type of installation plan carefully; a

high degree of skill is required to insure safety.

An entry port for the stovepipe must be cut

through the chimney with minimum damage

to the re clay liner. Some involved measure-

ments may be required to locate the ue liner

exactly. Before cutting, take time to mark the

size and position of the entry port. Position the

entry port so that at least 8 inches of the ue

liner remains below the port.

Keep in mind that wood mantels and com-

bustible trim around the replace must have

adequate clearances from the heater and

stovepipe or must be protected in an ap-

proved manner. Also, be sure to leave at

least 24” clearance between the top of the

stovepipe and the combustible ceiling or

other combustibles. Placing the center of the

entry port 2 feet below the ceiling will insure

proper clearance for 6 inch, 8 inch, and 10

inch stovepipes. Next, install a re clay (at least

5/8 in. thick) or metal thimble, being sure that

the thimble is ush with the inner ue lining.

Secure the thimble in place with refractory

mortar. The thimble should be surrounded

on all sides with 8 inches of brickwork (solid

masonry units) or 24 inches of stone.

Install the stovepipe as far as possible into

the thimble, but not past the inside of the

ue lining. There should be a small air space

(approximately 1/2 in.) between the stove-

pipe and thimble, allowing for expansion

of the stovepipe. Seal this airspace with

high-temperature caulking or ceramic wool.

Finally, be sure to wire the damper closed

and apply the same sealant you used at the

stovepipe and thimble junction.

Do not vent up through the replace opening,

regardless of whether the replace opening

is closed.

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DISPOSAL of ASHES

Ashes should be removed from the stove every

few days or when ashes get to 2 to 3 inches

deep. Always empty the stove when it is cold,

such as in the morning. Ashes should be placed

in a metal container with a tight tting lid. The

closed container of ashes should be placed on

a non combustible oor or on the ground, well

away from all combustible materials, pending

nal disposal. If the ashes are disposed of by

burial in soil or otherwise locally dispersed, they

should be retained in the close container until all

cinders have thoroughly cooled. Do not use the

ash container to dispose of other trash.

CREOSOTE / SOOT - FORMATION AND NEED FOR REMOVAL

When wood or coal is burned slowly, it produces

tar and other organic vapors, which combine

with expelled moisture to form creosote or soot.

The creosote vapors condense in the relatively

cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As a

result, creosote/soot residue accumulates on

the ue lining. When ignited this creosote/soot

makes an extremely hot re. When burning wood

or coal, the chimney connector and chimney

should be inspected at least twice a month during

the heating season to determine if a creosote/

soot build-up has occurred. If creosote/soot has

accumulated, it should be removed to reduce the

risk of a chimney re.

If a chimney or creosote re occurs, close all

dampers immediately and call the re department.

Once a chimney fire occurs, it can only be

extinguished by removing its source of oxygen. This

can be accomplished by shutting any mechanical

draft devices and/or discharging a CO² (Carbon

Dioxide) or Halon re extinguisher directly into the

heater through an appropriately placed cleanout.

If using a Halon extinguisher, please note that it

totally displaces oxygen and could become a

hazard in itself if enough is discharged into the

living space.

Wait for the heater to cool, then inspect the

chimney area for damage. A chimney re may

cause ignition of wall studs or rafters which you

thought were at a safe distance from the chimney.

If no damage results, perform a chimney cleaning

to ensure there is no more creosote deposits

remaining in the chimney. We suggest having your

chimney inspected by a qualied person before

using again.

Establish a routine technique for seasoning, storing,

and burning your fuel. Check daily for creosote

build-up until experience shows how often you

need to clean to be safe. Be aware that the hotter

the re, the less creosote or soot is deposited and

weekly cleaning may be necessary in mild weather

even though monthly cleaning may be enough

during the colder months. Contact your local

municipal or provincial re authority for information

on how to handle a chimney re if one occurs.

Have a clearly understood plan to handle the

situation if such an event were to happen.

8 17

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KEEP YOUR CHIMNEY CONNECTOR AND

CHIMNEY CLEAN AND IN GOOD CONDITION.

DOING SO CAN MAINTAIN HEATER EFFICIENCY

AND REDUCE THE RISK OF A FIRE.



• ASHES COULD CONTAIN HOT EMBERS EVEN

AFTER TWO DAYS WITHOUT OPERATING THE

STOVE.

• THE ASH PAN CAN BECOME VERY HOT.

WEAR GLOVES TO PREVENT INJURY.

• NEVER BURN THE STOVE WITH THE ASH DOOR

OPEN. THIS WOULD RESULT IN OVER FIRING

THE STOVE. DAMAGE TO THE STOVE AND

EVEN A HOUSE FIRE MAY RESULT.

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United States Stove DR6 Owner's Manual Page 8

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